Gigaplus GP-S25-0802 Management
This is an unmanaged switch. As a result, we do not have a management interface.
Gigaplus GP-S25-0802 Performance
In terms of performance, this was not stellar.
On one hand here, we saw more traffic go across this switch than some of the smaller models. On the other hand, the performance tended to be a bit lower in aggregate than we would have expected. The performance makes us think of this as more of a switch to get the maximum connectivity by adding the extra SFP+ port, than it is to get the maximum outright performance when the switch is under load.
Realistically, for most use cases this is fine. If you are concerned with getting the best performance, want management, or something of that nature, the MikroTik CRS310-8G+2S+IN is better, albeit more expensive.
Gigaplus GP-S25-0802 Power Consumption
The power supply of this switch has a number of markings and is a 24W (2A 12V) adapter. Again, like the placement of front or rear power inputs, some folks like or dislike right angle power adapters like this.
The power adapter we got with this unit had a second label which is not something we often see.
At idle, we saw 2W which is decent, but certainly higher than the 8+1 switches we have seen.
With a single 2.5GbE port plugged in, we saw 2.6W. 0.6W is at the higher end of what we see from linking a 2.5GbE port on lower-end switches, but it is also lower than we have seen from some competing solutions as the port counts increase.
We used a 10Gbase-T SFP+ pluggable to add a good amount of power consumption in a SFP+ port and we got 3.3W for 1.3W over our baseline. That is not too bad at all for this configuration. We had been expecting 3.7-4W.
Paying a penalty of around 0.5-1.5W for a second SFP+ port is one that many of our readers will be happy to do since it offers more connectivity in a single switch.
Final Words
This is a strange but useful switch. Some places simply need more connectivity, and so a 10-port switch with two SFP+ ports can be extremely useful. At $150 this switch would be very hard to recommend given that pricing proximity to the managed solutions. At $89, it is less than half of the price of managed solutions that are perhaps a bit better, albeit higher power. When this switch goes on sale for $60-70, it is an awesome and cheap way to add ports.
Internally, we really would like to have seen larger heatsinks on the switch chips. It is also a bit of a strange setup switch chip-wise. The switch chip heatsinks were held with thermal glue so it was not easy to get these off without destroying the switch for future testing.
Again, this is probably not the best switch for running critical or sensitive infrastructure. On the other hand, if you just need a few ports, this is a decent option. It can also be an option if you have something like a MikroTik CRS305-1G-4S+IN and want to add a 2.5GbE unmanaged switch for more ports.
Where to Buy
We purchased our unit on Amazon. Here is the affiliate link for this model.
Ultimate Fanless 2.5GbE Switch Buyer’s Guide 2024
You may have seen that we published the Ultimate Cheap Fanless 2.5GbE Switch Buyer’s Guide. We also recently published our Mega Round-up 2024 edition, in which we tested 21 new switches, including this one.
We went into the expanded methodology where this video took over 5000 testing hours to produce in our MEGA 2.5GbE Switch Guide Update with 21 New Models Added piece.
What 10g modules for ethernet do you suggest with this switch?
I actually just installed two of these in my house this weekend. I linked them together with a DAC cable, so collectively they act more or less like a 16-port 2.5Gbps switch with a 10Gbps uplink, and a spare 10Gbps port still available for a NAS, for under $200.
Admittedly, my top priorities were cheap, quiet, and cool, but performance is in line with what I expected. No issues to report in the first 48 hours, thankfully!
I’m really curious, how the (hopefully soon) upcoming Maxlinear MxL86282 is about to perform. Are there any signs, when the first devices are about to enter the market?
Front or rear DC input does not matter as much as a locking DC plug that can’t accidentally be knocked off the unit. Of course, an integral power supply to avoid nasty wall-warts is even better.